The new issue of Wired features a fun profile of Ted Breaux, a microbiologist and absinthe detective. From the article:
On the outside, (Environmental Analytical Solutions Inc.) is classic New Orleans: red brick, white pillars. But inside it’s more like a set from War Games: dot matrix printers, ancient PCs, and nine Hewlett-Packard gas chromatography-mass spectrometer machines attached to large blue tanks of helium and hydrogen. This is where Breaux does his lab work, testing water samples for pollution and pesticides. In his downtime, he studies absinthe here.
Using the GCMS apparatus, he’s able to break the liqueur down into its component molecules. “It’s like forensics,” Breaux says, gesturing toward the machines. “Give me one microliter of absinthe and I know exactly what it’s going to taste like.”
Breaux explains how the testing works. He takes a bottle of the liqueur, inserts a syringe through the cork (absinthe oxidizes like wine once the bottle is open), and extracts a few milliliters. He transfers the sample into a vial, which is lifted by a robotic arm into the gas chromatography tower. There it is separated into its components. Then the mass spectrometer identifies them and measures their relative quantities.
One of the ingredients is thujone, a compound in wormwood that is toxic if it’s ingested, capable of causing violent seizures and kidney failure. Breaux hands me a bottle of pure liquid thujone. “Take a whiff,” he says with an evil grin. I recoil at the odor – it’s like menthol laced with napalm. This is the noxious chemical compound responsible for absinthe’s bad reputation. The question that’s been debated for years is, Just how much thujone is there in absinthe?